A car that will not start is one of the most frustrating faults because it can be anything from a flat battery to a failed starter motor, immobiliser or fuel problem.
Listen to what it does
If you hear a rapid clicking or nothing at all, the battery or starter is the likely culprit. If the engine turns over normally but will not fire, look at fuel, ignition or the immobiliser — a key fob with a flat battery is surprisingly common. Warning lights that flash or stay on after the key is turned give useful clues, so tell us what you see when you call.
Things to try, and things not to
Check the gear selector is in park or neutral, press the clutch fully on a manual, and try the spare key. Do not keep cranking for long periods, as it drains the battery and can flood a petrol engine. Do not try to bump start a modern automatic or a car with a catalytic converter; it can cause expensive damage.
Home start or recovery
If the car is at home, our home start service is designed for exactly this. Where it can be started safely we will do that; where it cannot, we load it onto a flatbed and take it to your garage. We cover cars, vans and light trucks up to 7.5 tons across Cornwall, 24/7, with no membership and a clear price before we set off.
What to do right now
- Try the headlights and dashboard — bright = battery's fine, dim = battery's the suspect
- Listen to what happens when you turn the key — silence, click, or crank?
- Check fuel level and that you're in Park/Neutral
- Have the key card or fob ready — sometimes a low-battery key fob blocks ignition
What not to do
- Don't keep cranking past 3–4 attempts — you'll drain the battery and overheat the starter
- Don't ignore a clicking sound — that's almost always battery, not starter motor
- Don't try push-starting an automatic or any car with a DPF
- Don't disconnect the battery while diagnosing — modern cars throw fault codes that need clearing
What affects the cost
- Call-out fee covers diagnosis even if no recovery is needed
- Recovery to a garage adds mileage-based cost
- Out-of-hours premium applies overnight and Sundays
Equipment we bring
- Battery and alternator tester
- Jump pack for quick battery diagnosis
- OBD-II reader for ECU fault codes
- Flatbed for recovery if on-site fix isn't possible
Questions drivers ask
Will you try to start my car in Cornwall before recovering?
Yes — we always run basic diagnosis first. If it's a flat battery, a loose connection, or a key-fob issue, we'll get you started on-site and save you the recovery fee.
What's the most common reason a car won't start?
Battery, by a long margin — about 60% of our 'won't start' jobs are flat batteries, often from short trips or interior lights left on. Next most common is a failed starter motor, then fuel-related issues.
Can you start a car with a dead immobiliser?
Not directly — that's a dealer job. But we can recover the car to your dealer or a specialist. If the immobiliser fault is intermittent, sometimes a battery disconnect cycle resets it.
How do I know if it's the starter motor or the battery?
A clicking sound usually means battery (not enough power to engage the starter). Total silence with bright dashboard lights usually means starter or ignition switch. We test both on-site.
A "won't start" call from Cornwall can be anything from a flat battery to a snapped timing belt. Broadside Recovery diagnoses on-site first — battery, starter, fuel, ECU — and only recovers if the fault genuinely needs a workshop, saving customers the cost of a needless tow.